Astrophotography is a tremendous hobby that combines the beauty of the night sky with the art of photography. For enthusiasts it is essential to get the tools right in the UK for capturing stunning images of stars, planets, and celestial events requires the right equipment tailored to local conditions. This guide explores the essential astrophotography tools that will help you get started or upgrade your setup for better results. Understanding the basics of UK astrophotography tools Before diving into specific equipment, it’s important to understand the unique challenges and opportunities presented by astrophotography in the UK. The weather can be unpredictable, with frequent cloud cover and light pollution in urban areas. This means that having reliable, high-quality gear is crucial to maximize your chances of capturing clear images. Some of the fundamental tools every astrophotographer should consider include: A sturdy tripod : Stability is key for long exposure shots. A camera with manual settings : DSLRs or mirrorless cameras are preferred. Wide-angle and telephoto lenses : To capture both expansive skies and detailed celestial objects. Remote shutter release : To avoid camera shake during long exposures. Star trackers : Devices that compensate for Earth’s rotation, allowing longer exposures without star trails. Investing in these basics will set a solid foundation for your astrophotography journey. Choosing the right telescope and mount for UK skies A telescope is often the centrepiece of any astrophotography setup, especially for those interested in deep-sky objects like nebulae and galaxies. When selecting a telescope, consider the following: Aperture size : Larger apertures gather more light, essential for faint objects. Focal length : Determines the magnification and field of view. Portability : UK enthusiasts often travel to dark sky sites, so lightweight and compact designs are beneficial. Equally important is the mount. An equatorial mount is highly recommended because it aligns with Earth’s axis, allowing smooth tracking of stars. This is vital for long exposure astrophotography to prevent star trails. For beginners, a good quality reflector telescope or refractor telescope paired with a motorized equatorial mount offers excellent value and performance. More advanced users might opt for apochromatic refractors for sharper images and less chromatic aberration. My telescope set up is shown below Essential accessories to enhance your astrophotography experience Beyond the main equipment, several accessories can significantly improve your astrophotography results and ease of use: Field Flattener or Focal Reducer : These help correct optical distortions and widen the field of view. I have a Starizona .75 reducer and it's one of teh best pieces of optics for my Newtonian. Light Pollution Filters : Particularly useful in UK urban or suburban areas to reduce the orange glow from streetlights. Dew Heaters : Prevent moisture buildup on lenses and mirrors during cold, damp nights. Power Supplies : Portable battery packs or power stations ensure your equipment runs all night. Software for Image Processing : Programs like DeepSkyStacker or Astropixel Processor, Adobe Photoshop or Pixinisight are essential for stacking and enhancing images. Using these accessories will help you adapt to the UK’s variable conditions and improve the quality of your astrophotography. Cameras and lenses: what works best for UK astrophotography? Choosing the right camera and lenses is crucial. Many astrophotographers prefer DSLRs or mirrorless cameras because of their versatility and manual control options. Here are some tips: Full-frame sensors capture more light and detail, ideal for night sky photography. Prime lenses with wide apertures (f/2.8 or lower) allow more light to hit the sensor, reducing exposure times. Zoom lenses offer flexibility but may have smaller apertures. For deep-sky imaging, dedicated astronomy cameras (CCD or CMOS) can be connected to telescopes for higher sensitivity and better noise control. However, these require more technical knowledge and investment. In the UK, where clear nights can be limited, having a camera that performs well at high ISO settings is beneficial to capture more detail in shorter exposures. Planning and Location: Maximising your astrophotography sessions Even the best equipment won’t guarantee great photos without proper planning. The UK offers many dark sky parks and rural areas ideal for astrophotography, such as Exmoor, Brecon Beacons, and the Scottish Highlands. Here are some tips to make the most of your sessions: Check weather forecasts and moon phases : Clear, moonless nights are best. Use apps like Stellarium or SkySafari : To identify celestial objects and plan your shots. Scout locations during the day : To find safe and accessible spots. Arrive early to set up and acclimatise : This helps avoid rushing and mistakes. By combining the right equipment with careful planning, you can capture breathtaking images of the night sky. Where to find quality astrophotography Equipment in the UK For those looking to purchase or upgrade their gear, many UK-based retailers and online stores specialise in astronomy and photography equipment. It’s important to buy from reputable sources to ensure product quality and after-sales support. Astrophotography is a rewarding pursuit that combines science, art, and patience. With the right UK astrophotography tools, you can overcome local challenges and capture the wonders of the cosmos in stunning detail. Whether you are just starting or looking to enhance your setup, investing in quality equipment and accessories will make your night sky photography more enjoyable and successful.

Astronomy opens a window to the vast universe beyond our planet. Among the many celestial wonders, deep sky astronomy objects captivate both amateur stargazers and professional astronomers alike. These objects are located far beyond our solar system and include galaxies, nebulae, and star clusters. Understanding these fascinating entities helps us appreciate the scale and complexity of the cosmos. What Are Deep Sky Astronomy Objects? Deep sky astronomy objects refer to celestial bodies that are not individual stars or planets but rather large-scale structures in space. These include: Galaxies : Massive systems of stars, gas, dust, and dark matter bound together by gravity. Nebulae : Clouds of gas and dust where new stars are often born. Star Clusters : Groups of stars that formed from the same molecular cloud and are gravitationally bound. These objects are typically very distant and require telescopes to observe in detail. They are often catalogued in astronomical databases and are popular targets for astrophotography. Exploring Different Types of Deep Sky Astronomy Objects, this is M51 the pinswheel galaxy Galaxies Galaxies come in various shapes and sizes. The most common types are spiral, elliptical, and irregular galaxies. The Milky Way, our home galaxy, is a barred spiral galaxy. Other famous examples include the Andromeda Galaxy, which is the closest spiral galaxy to us, and the Sombrero Galaxy, known for its bright nucleus and prominent dust lane. Galaxies contain billions of stars and often have supermassive black holes at their centres. Studying galaxies helps astronomers understand the evolution of the universe and the distribution of matter. The above image is of the wizard nebula taken with my own telescope and astronomy camera Nebulae Nebulae are often the birthplaces of stars. They are made up of gas and dust and can be emission nebulae, reflection nebulae, or dark nebulae. The Orion Nebula is one of the most well-known emission nebulae visible to the naked eye. It glows brightly due to ionised hydrogen gas excited by young, hot stars. Reflection nebulae, like the Pleiades cluster, shine by reflecting the light of nearby stars. Dark nebulae, such as the Horsehead Nebula, appear as dark silhouettes against brighter backgrounds. Star Clusters Star clusters are groups of stars that formed together and move through space as a unit. There are two main types: Open Clusters : Loose groups of a few hundred stars, often young and found in the spiral arms of galaxies. The Pleiades is a famous example. Globular Clusters : Dense, spherical collections of hundreds of thousands of old stars orbiting the galactic core. Messier 13 in Hercules is a well-studied globular cluster. Studying star clusters provides insights into stellar evolution and the history of our galaxy. How to Observe Deep Sky Astronomy Objects Observing deep sky objects can be a rewarding experience. Here are some practical tips: Choose the Right Equipment A good quality telescope with a wide aperture is essential for viewing faint objects. Beginners can start with a 6-8 inch reflector telescope. Find a Dark Sky Location Light pollution from cities can obscure faint objects. Try to observe from rural areas or designated dark sky parks. Use Star Charts and Apps Star charts and mobile apps help locate objects in the night sky. Apps like Stellarium or SkySafari provide real-time sky maps. Be Patient and Practice Deep sky objects often require time to locate and observe. Allow your eyes to adjust to the dark and practice regularly. Join Astronomy Clubs Local astronomy clubs often organise star parties and provide access to better equipment and expert guidance. The Importance of Studying Deep Sky Objects Studying these objects is crucial for several reasons: Understanding Cosmic Evolution Observing galaxies and nebulae helps scientists learn how stars and galaxies form and evolve over billions of years. Mapping the Universe Deep sky objects serve as markers to map the structure of the universe and measure cosmic distances. You can check out the messierplanner tool here, where you can search through a huge catalogue of deep sky objects. Inspiring Scientific Discovery Many discoveries, such as the existence of dark matter and black holes, have come from studying these distant objects. Educational and Recreational Value Astronomy inspires curiosity and scientific thinking, making it a valuable educational tool. Getting Started with Deep Sky Astronomy If you want to dive into the world of deep sky objects, here are some actionable steps: Invest in a Beginner Telescope : Look for models with good optics and ease of use. Learn the Night Sky : Familiarise yourself with constellations and bright stars. Start with Bright Objects : Begin observing well-known objects like the Orion Nebula or the Andromeda Galaxy. Record Your Observations : Keep a journal or use apps to track what you see. Explore Astrophotography : Capture images of deep sky objects to enhance your experience. With dedication and the right tools, anyone can enjoy the wonders of deep sky astronomy. Expanding your knowledge and skills As you progress, consider: Upgrading Equipment : Larger telescopes and specialised filters can reveal more detail. Attending Workshops : Many observatories offer courses on astronomy and astrophotography. Reading Scientific Literature : Books and journals provide deeper insights into current research. Participating in Citizen Science : Projects like Galaxy Zoo allow you to contribute to real scientific studies. Exploring deep sky astronomy objects is a lifelong journey filled with discovery and awe. Embarking on the adventure of observing and understanding deep sky astronomy objects opens up a universe of knowledge and beauty. Whether you are a casual observer or an aspiring astronomer, the cosmos offers endless wonders waiting to be explored.

Capturing the Beauty of the Orion Nebula If you’ve ever gazed at the winter skies and spotted Orion rising in the southeast, you've likely wondered how to capture its brightest jewel: the Orion Nebula, or M42. It's a favorite target for a good reason. M42 is bright, full of detail, and an excellent starting point for anyone new to deep sky imaging and astrophotography. However, let's be honest—framing it properly isn't always as simple as it seems. So, how can you frame M42 like a pro, even if you're just starting out? What is M42? Before diving into the setup, let’s get our bearings. M42 is a vast star-forming region approximately 1,350 light-years away. It resides in the "sword" of the Orion constellation and is visible to the naked eye, even from my Bortle 5 backyard—it's that bright! Due to its brightness and size (about 65 light-years across), M42 ranks among the most photographed nebulae in the sky. Here’s an image I took after returning from an astronomy show in 2024. The skies were crystal clear. You can see Orion and the Orion nebula, M42, near the middle bottom of this image. However, that popularity means one thing: you've probably seen countless images of it. So how do you make yours stand out? You can also check out this blog post here that discusses M42. Close up of Orion nebula taken by Tom McCrorie. Step 1: Know your Gear’s field of view (FOV) Framing M42 properly comes down to matching your telescope and camera setup to the scale of the nebula. You might even need to do a two-panel or four-panel mosaic depending on your FOV. Using a DSLR or Mirrorless Camera + Telephoto Lens (135–300mm) You’ll capture a wide-field shot of M42, along with nearby nebulae like M43 and the Running Man (NGC 1977). This setup is great for context-rich shots. Using a Small Refractor Telescope (around 400–600mm) You’ll fill the frame with M42 and M43, balancing detail with surrounding gas. This setup is ideal for newcomers—it's both forgiving and rewarding. Using a Longer Focal Length Telescope (800mm+) You’re going in tight. Expect a detailed close-up of the nebula’s core, particularly the Trapezium stars and interior dust lanes. This setup is great for high-resolution shots but can be harder to track and guide. Amazing astronomy tools like Telescopius or the Astronomy Tools FOV calculator can assist you in planning your shot based on your setup. Just enter your gear details and see how the nebula will fill the frame. Additionally, tools within software platforms like ZWO's ASI AIR will provide ideas for framing, which can be extremely helpful. Step 2: Frame with intention M42 occupies a rich cosmic neighbourhood. Just above it lies the Running Man Nebula—a beautiful blue reflection nebula that many accidentally crop out. Two Common Framing Styles Centered Shot of M42: Clean, symmetrical, and very popular. Offset to Include the Running Man: This style adds visual interest and balances the frame. To be honest, there isn’t a right or wrong way to image this beautiful object; it is entirely up to you. On Picastro, many of the most admired M42 shots lean into this second approach. The offset composition helps tell a fuller story of our skies. Step 3: Watch your orientation It’s easy to overlook this, but orientation really matters. Nebulae have no definitive "up" or "down," so it can be tempting to frame it however it appears on your screen. Try rotating the camera slightly, especially if you're imaging through a refractor or Newtonian, which often flips or mirrors the image. TOP TIP: On the Picastro app, you can preview how others have oriented their M42 shots. This will help you decide what feels right for your version. Step 4: Mind the Brightness M42 is bright—so bright that it can easily blow out the core of your image, particularly the Trapezium star cluster at its centre. If you’re stacking Images: Use a Range of Exposure Times: - Short exposures (5–15 seconds) preserve the core detail. - Longer exposures (60–180+ seconds) bring out the faint outer gas. This technique is known as HDR compositing. It’s a method utilized by both beginners and pros on Picastro to balance the bright and dim regions of the nebula. Step 5: Consider light pollution and moonlight Because M42 is so bright, you can capture it even under light-polluted skies. However, if you want to reveal the delicate outer gas structures, darker skies are incredibly beneficial. I have images M42 in an almost full moon however and the details are still increduble. Avoid nights near the full moon unless you’re using narrowband filters. Even then, the moon can wash out contrast. Many Picastro enthusiasts recommend shooting M42 during moonless nights from December to February for the best results. Step 6: Frame, Shoot… Then Share Once you’ve framed and captured your version of M42, don’t keep it to yourself. Picastro was created for moments like this—a platform where space lovers and astrophotographers of all skill levels can share, admire, and learn from one another. Upload your image, tag it with “M42” or “Orion Nebula,” and explore what others have captured with similar gear. TL;DR: Framing M42 Match your focal length to the desired field of view. Include nearby nebulae for compositional depth and scale. Use different exposure times to preserve detail in the core. Rotate and experiment with orientation. Don’t forget to share your results on Picastro—we’re all here to admire, learn, and encourage! Want More? Check out the M42 tag on the Picastro app to see how others framed their Orion shots. Whether you’re going for a wide field or a close-up, there’s plenty of inspiration waiting for you in the social media app for astro enthusiasts. And if you’re just getting started—don’t overthink it. Take the shot, upload it, and learn from the journey. That's what being a Picastro Nerd is all about.

I have imaged some of these Messier objects from my back garden on the west coast of Scotland. The full Messier list of deep sky objects listed shown below. Messier Catalogue : Charles Messier Number of objects : 110 Above is shown an image of Messier 51a – The whirlpool galaxy which is essentially two galaxies colliding, that I took from my back garden in 2023. This is a total of 12 hours or so made up of lots of 180 second exposures, stacked and combined to give one final image. If you look very carefully you will spot a few other galaxies surrounding this deep sky object. The Whirlpool Galaxy, also known as Messier 51a or NGC 5194, is an interacting grand-design spiral galaxy with a Seyfert 2 active galactic nucleus. It lies in the constellation Canes Venatici, and was the first galaxy to be classified as a spiral galaxy. It is 7.22 megaparsecs away and 23.58 kiloparsecs in diameter. Source: Wikipedia The Messier Catalogue is a list of 110 astronomical objects compiled by the French astronomer Charles Messier in the 18th century. Here’s a summary of each object, including its type and brief description: M1 – M10 M1 (Crab Nebula) – Supernova remnant in Taurus, known for its pulsar at the centre. See my image here M2 – Globular cluster in Aquarius, one of the largest and oldest in the Milky Way. M3 – Globular cluster in Canes Venatici, rich in variable stars. M4 – Globular cluster in Scorpius, close to Earth and bright. M5 – Globular cluster in Serpens, very bright with a dense core. M6 (Butterfly Cluster) – Open cluster in Scorpius, named for its butterfly shape. M7 (Ptolemy Cluster) – Open cluster in Scorpius, visible to the naked eye. M8 (Lagoon Nebula) – Emission nebula in Sagittarius, contains a large star-forming region. M9 – Globular cluster in Ophiuchus, relatively close and dense. M10 – Globular cluster in Ophiuchus, slightly elongated and bright. M11 – M20 M11 (Wild Duck Cluster) – Dense open cluster in Scutum, named for its V shape. M12 – Globular cluster in Ophiuchus, has fewer dense stars than other globulars. M13 (Hercules Cluster) – Bright globular cluster in Hercules, easily visible in binoculars. M14 – Globular cluster in Ophiuchus, with a large, dense core. M15 – Globular cluster in Pegasus, contains a planetary nebula. M16 (Eagle Nebula) – Emission nebula in Serpens, famous for its "Pillars of Creation." M17 (Omega Nebula) – Emission nebula in Sagittarius, rich in star formation. M18 – Open cluster in Sagittarius, small and sparse. M19 – Globular cluster in Ophiuchus, elliptical in shape. M20 (Trifid Nebula) – Emission and reflection nebula in Sagittarius, with a distinct three-lobed structure. M21 – M30 M21 – Open cluster in Sagittarius, contains young stars. M22 – Globular cluster in Sagittarius, among the brightest and closest to Earth. M23 – Open cluster in Sagittarius, rich and large. M24 (Sagittarius Star Cloud) – Dense star cloud in Sagittarius. M25 – Open cluster in Sagittarius, contains a yellow giant star. M26 – Open cluster in Scutum, has a noticeable dark patch. M27 (Dumbbell Nebula) – Planetary nebula in Vulpecula, shaped like an hourglass. M28 – Globular cluster in Sagittarius, compact and bright. M29 – Open cluster in Cygnus, small and sparse. M30 – Globular cluster in Capricornus, asymmetrical with a dense core. M31 – M40 M31 (Andromeda Galaxy) – Spiral galaxy in Andromeda, closest large galaxy to the Milky Way. M32 – Elliptical galaxy in Andromeda, satellite of M31. M33 (Triangulum Galaxy) – Spiral galaxy in Triangulum, part of the Local Group. M34 – Open cluster in Perseus, loosely packed. M35 – Open cluster in Gemini, large and rich in stars. M36 – Open cluster in Auriga, sparse but bright. M37 – Open cluster in Auriga, rich and the brightest in its constellation. M38 – Open cluster in Auriga, with a cross-shaped pattern. M39 – Open cluster in Cygnus, scattered and sparse. M40 – Double star in Ursa Major, part of a failed search for a nebula. M41 – M50 M41 – Open cluster in Canis Major, visible to the naked eye. M42 (Orion Nebula) – Emission nebula in Orion, known for active star formation. See my image here M43 – Emission nebula in Orion, part of the Orion Nebula complex. M44 (Beehive Cluster) – Open cluster in Cancer, bright and easily visible. M45 (Pleiades) – Open cluster in Taurus, among the nearest and most visible clusters. M46 – Open cluster in Puppis, includes a planetary nebula. M47 – Open cluster in Puppis, bright but loosely packed. M48 – Open cluster in Hydra, relatively sparse. M49 – Elliptical galaxy in Virgo, one of the brightest in the Virgo Cluster. M50 – Open cluster in Monoceros, heart-shaped with bright stars. M51 – M60 M51 (Whirlpool Galaxy) – Spiral galaxy in Canes Venatici, famous for its spiral structure. M52 – Open cluster in Cassiopeia, dense and rich. M53 – Globular cluster in Coma Berenices, dense and distant. M54 – Globular cluster in Sagittarius, actually part of a satellite galaxy. M55 – Globular cluster in Sagittarius, sparse and loosely packed. M56 – Globular cluster in Lyra, small and dim. M57 (Ring Nebula) – Planetary nebula in Lyra, known for its ring shape. M58 – Barred spiral galaxy in Virgo, bright and part of the Virgo Cluster. M59 – Elliptical galaxy in Virgo, compact and dense. M60* – Elliptical galaxy in Virgo, one of the largest in the Virgo Cluster. M61 – M70 M61 – Barred spiral galaxy in Virgo, bright with active star formation. M62 – Globular cluster in Ophiuchus, elliptical and compact. M63 (Sunflower Galaxy) – Spiral galaxy in Canes Venatici, with bright spiral arms. See my image here M64 (Black Eye Galaxy) – Spiral galaxy in Coma Berenices, known for a dark dust lane. M65 – Spiral galaxy in Leo, elongated with a prominent core. M66 – Spiral galaxy in Leo, part of the Leo Triplet. M67 – Open cluster in Cancer, very old and compact. M68 – Globular cluster in Hydra, bright and dense. M69 – Globular cluster in Sagittarius, close to the Galactic centre. M70 – Globular cluster in Sagittarius, very dense with a concentrated core. M71 – M80 M71 – Loose globular cluster in Sagitta, almost like an open cluster. M72 – Globular cluster in Aquarius, faint and distant. M73 – Asterism in Aquarius, four stars forming a Y-shape. M74 – Spiral galaxy in Pisces, almost face-on with delicate spiral arms. M75 – Globular cluster in Sagittarius, dense and distant. M76 (Little Dumbbell Nebula)*– Planetary nebula in Perseus, resembles M27. M77 – Spiral galaxy in Cetus, one of the largest in the catalog. M78 – Reflection nebula in Orion, bright with young stars. M79 – Globular cluster in Lepus, compact and bright. M80 – Globular cluster in Scorpius, one of the densest known. M81 – M90 M81 (Bode’s Galaxy) – Spiral galaxy in Ursa Major, very bright and large. M82 (Cigar Galaxy) – Starburst galaxy in Ursa Major, bright with high star formation. M83 (Southern Pinwheel Galaxy)** – Barred spiral galaxy in Hydra, large and bright. M84 – Elliptical galaxy in Virgo, located in the centre of the Virgo Cluster. M85 – Elliptical galaxy in Coma Berenices, slightly flattened. M86 – Elliptical galaxy in Virgo, in the Virgo Cluster. M87 – Giant elliptical galaxy in Virgo, known for its supermassive black hole. M88 – Spiral galaxy in Coma Berenices, bright with well-defined arms. M89 – Elliptical galaxy in Virgo, nearly spherical in shape. M90 – Spiral galaxy in Virgo, part of the Virgo Cluster. M91 – M100 M91 – Barred spiral galaxy in Coma Berenices, faint and difficult to observe M92 – Globular cluster in Hercules, very dense and bright. M93 – Open cluster in Puppis, rich and bright with young stars. M94 – Spiral galaxy in Canes Venatici, with a bright core and faint arms. M95 – Barred spiral galaxy in Leo, with a ring structure. M96 – Spiral galaxy in Leo, bright and large. M97 (Owl Nebula) – Planetary nebula in Ursa Major, resembles owl eyes. M98 – Spiral galaxy in Coma Berenices, faint and elongated. M99 – Spiral galaxy in Coma Berenices, with well-defined spiral arms. M100 – Spiral galaxy in Coma Berenices, with a nearly face-on orientation. M101 – M110 M101 (Pinwheel Galaxy) – Spiral galaxy in Ursa Major, large and very detailed. M102 – Lenticular galaxy in Draco (often disputed as a duplicate or missing). M103 – Open cluster in Cassiopeia, sparse but bright. M104 (Sombrero Galaxy) – Spiral galaxy in Virgo, known for its bright nucleus. M105 – Elliptical galaxy in Leo, close to M96. M106 – Spiral galaxy in Canes Venatici, active nucleus and spiral arms. M107 – Globular cluster in Ophiuchus, faint and loosely packed. M108 – Spiral galaxy in Ursa Major, seen edge-on. M109 – Barred spiral galaxy in Ursa Major, bright with faint arms. M110 – Elliptical galaxy in Andromeda, companion to M31. That was some read! Watch out for more images of these deep sky objects, galaxies and nebula and clusters that I took from my back garden on the west coast of Scotland and if you want to check out the new messier object and planning tool from Picastro, check out the link here

Astrophotography is one of the most fascinating hobbies that allows you to capture the beauty of the night sky. There's an expectation that you need amazing and expensive equipment, but that sometimes isn't the case. With just your smartphone and a few simple techniques, you can take stunning photos of stars, the moon, and even some planets. This short guide will walk you through the basics of astrophotography using your smartphone, helping you unlock the wonders of the cosmos right from your backyard. Understanding the basics of astrophotography Before diving into the technical side, it’s important to understand what astrophotography involves. It is the art of photographing celestial objects and phenomena in the night sky; it's a mix of science and art. It;s one thing that makes the hobby quite unique and individual. Unlike regular photography, astrophotography requires longer exposure times to capture faint light from stars other deep sky objects like nebulae and galaxies. Smartphones have come a long way in camera technology, and many now feature night modes, manual settings, and apps that enhance their night sky imaging capabilities. However, astrophotography still presents challenges such as low light, movement of stars, and the need for stability. To get started, you'll need to consider the following: Finding a dark location away from city lights. Use a tripod or stable surface to keep your phone steady. Adjust your camera settings for long exposure. Use apps designed for astrophotography to improve results. By mastering these basics, you can begin capturing impressive images of the night sky. Essential tips for smartphone astrophotography Getting the best results from your smartphone requires some practical tips and tricks. Here are some key recommendations: 1. Choose the right location and time Light pollution from cities can wash out stars, so find a dark spot such as a park, countryside, or beach. Check the weather forecast to ensure clear skies. The best time for astrophotography is during a new moon or when the moon is not too bright. These apps will help you plan for taking images of deep sky objects. 2. Use a tripod or stable surface Even the slightest movement can blur your photos during long exposures. Use a tripod designed for smartphones or place your phone on a stable surface. This will keep your phone steady and improve image sharpness. 3. Adjust phone camera settings manually Many smartphones allow manual control of ISO, shutter speed, and focus. For astrophotography: Set ISO between 800 and 3200 to capture more light. Use a shutter speed of 10 to 30 seconds to gather enough light. Set focus to infinity to keep stars sharp. If your phone doesn’t support manual settings, use a dedicated astrophotography app. 4. Use the right apps Apps can enhance your smartphone’s astrophotography capabilities. For example, the NightCap app offers features like long exposure control, star tracking, and image stacking. These tools help you capture clearer and more detailed images. 5. Experiment and practice Astrophotography is a skill that improves with practice. Try different settings, angles, and compositions. Review your photos and adjust accordingly. Over time, you’ll learn what works best for your phone and location. How to use your smartphone for astrophotography Now that you know the basics and tips, here’s a step-by-step guide to taking your first astrophotography shots with your smartphone. Step 1: Prepare your equipment Smartphone with a good camera. To be honest most modern day cameras have incredible technology inside of them. Tripod or stable surface. Optional: remote shutter or timer to avoid shaking. Step 2: Find a dark spot Head to a location with minimal light pollution. Use apps like Light Pollution Map to find suitable spots near you. Step 3: Set up your phone Mount your phone on the tripod. Open your camera app or an astrophotography app like the picastro app. Switch to manual mode if available. Step 4: Adjust Camera Settings Set ISO to 800-3200. Set shutter speed to 15-30 seconds. Focus on infinity. Turn off the flash. Step 5: Take the shot Use a remote shutter or timer to avoid shaking. Take multiple shots to increase your chances of a good photo. Step 6: Edit your photos Use photo editing apps to enhance brightness, contrast, and sharpness. Avoid over-editing to keep the natural look of the night sky. Step 7: Share and learn Share your photos with online communities or social media. Get feedback and tips to improve your skills. Picastro is a tremendously simple and intuitive way to show off your newest image of our nightskies. Common challenges and how to overcome them Astrophotography with a smartphone can be tricky. Here are some common issues and solutions: Blurry images Use a tripod or stable surface. Use a timer or remote shutter. Ensure focus is set to infinity. Make sure you have your exposure setting less than 10 seconds. This will help mitigate star trails on your camera phone. Too much noise Lower ISO if possible. Use noise reduction features in editing apps. Take multiple shots and stack them using apps. Star trails Star trails occur when exposure is too long. Reduce shutter speed to 10-15 seconds. Use star tracking apps to compensate for Earth’s rotation. Light pollution Choose darker locations. Use apps to find dark sky areas. Avoid shooting near streetlights or bright buildings. By understanding these challenges and applying the solutions, you can improve your astrophotography results significantly. Expanding your astrophotography skills Once you’ve mastered basic smartphone astrophotography, you can explore more advanced techniques: Star Trails Photography : Capture the movement of stars by using longer exposures. Moon Photography : Use zoom lenses or clip-on lenses for detailed moon shots. Planet Photography : Capture bright planets like Jupiter or Saturn with careful timing. Image Stacking : Combine multiple images to reduce noise and enhance detail. Investing in phone accessories like phone attachments, portable power banks, and better tripods can also enhance your experience and help to make yout smartphone astrophotography images even better. The image above was taken using my smart phone, in this case the iPhone8 attached to my telescope using a special phone attachements called the NEXYZ shown below. My iPhone was also attached to my 10mm Hyperion eyepiece. I miss taking images of the moon. My Hyperion 10mm and Celestron 2.3mm eyepiece. I loved this eyepiece, the optics were really nice. The NEXYZ phone camera attached is a great investment to make if you want to attached your phone to your telescope. Astrophotography is a rewarding hobby that combines science, art, and technology. With patience and practice, your smartphone can become a powerful tool to explore the night sky. Start your astrophotography journey tonight and discover the universe through your smartphone lens. With the right approach and tools, the stars are closer than you think. The same principles will apply to taking iamages of deep sky objects. Picastro asked Jan Herlyn from Lower Saxony, how he goes about taking his images using his smart phone. Let's start with his best image to date of the Rosette nebula, taken using his smartphone attached to his telescope and to his eyepeice. This was taken using NO tracking, just Googles astrophotography mode on his Pixel8 cameraphone. Jan comments that the phone he has, uses Machine learning to detect starts and handles tracking and stacking (even offline) There is very little processing done on this image as the phones sensor already is picking up the oranges and blues of this wonderful emission nebula. The other image below the rosette is another well known deep sky object called Pac-Man nebula and once again with minimal intervention from other external tracking or guide camera he has managed to image and capture another beautiful object in our night skies. You can see Jan's profile on Picastro here We hope you have enjoyed reading the blog article on how to use your smart phone for astrophotography and imaging the moon.

There’s a strange contradiction at the heart of social media these days. Let me explain. We’ve never had more freedom to share our astro creativity, and yet we’ve never felt more trapped by how it’s treating us. As an astrophotographer who loves sharing his journey to the cosmos and beyond, I feel it’s almost impossible to escape the ‘gravitational pull’ of likes, followers, and social media engagement. Those tiny, subtle animations of a thumbs-up or a heart popping once felt like encouragement, but have quietly become the gatekeepers of our creative self-worth, and I feel really sad about that. Somewhere between uploading your first astro photo and checking your analytics on your latest post, we forgot why we started sharing astronomy images in the first place, and it’s costing us far more than you think. It’s a race, and not a very good one, because there will only ever be one winner. Look—we all crave connection. I get it. It’s totally human. My name is ‘insert name here’ and I am addicted to likes and shares and follows. We’re now programmed to feel that this has more value than it ever used to. But, this validation seems to have turned into modern-day social currency. These connections have been engineered by huge social media companies to become transactional. Social media is filled with millions of bots and spam and fake accounts, and each post can feel like it has become a pitch for approval.  Every content interaction feels like proof that we’re seen, heard, and valued. I get it: I’ve fallen into the same trap from time-to-time. You share an image and you crave the validation. It’s OK to admit it. Oh, and for what it’s worth, Meta will introduce millions of AI generated fake profiles for user engagement over the next five years. Strap in folks: we’re in for bumpy ride. We all know that neuroscientists have proven social media likes activate the same reward centres in our brains as gambling. Dopamine is released, giving us a fleeting hit of pleasure, and like any addictive cycle, we chase it again and again. We crave it every single time. But, the high never, ever lasts. It’s another fact that the more we depend on external approval, the less we trust our internal compass. What the Hell has happened to us? We used to share our journeys to the cosmos because we wanted to, and if a few people liked our images, that would feel amazing. But now, because of how these large companies want us to act, we have turned into a performing monkeys to help them create content. This means they can make money from advertisers and people buying our data, and even worse, steal our space images to train their algorithms! Grrrr. We’ve stopped asking ‘does this feel true to me?” and started asking “will they like it?” I’ll be honest here: I used to feel the same way. I constantly see ‘thanks so much for 1 million views’ or ‘thanks so much for 56,000 followers’. These platforms have reconditioned our brains, but what does this actually mean? What is the aftermath of this? It’s like the algorithm knows how to play you. We fall for it hook, line, and ‘stinker’. Sometimes this is the only way for people in the hobby to make money, because they can sell prints, calendars, and merch etc, so I get it. But, we have been tricked because of how they want us to feel. For us amateur astronomers and astrophotographers, this shift can be subtle but damaging. You might start planning your next target not because you’re curious about its structure or history, but because you know it’ll perform better on social media. You see that fake aurora image racking up millions of views more than a faint Sharpless or LBN object—but which one teaches you more? Which one challenges you as a creator? The only beneficiary is the social media company, not us. In the age of algorithms, creativity seems to have been reverse-engineered. We no longer make to express how we feel or what we love—we make to be seen. To be liked. To get followed. When I was younger and I being followed, I’d call the local fuzz. Every platform has its secret sauce: post at this time, use these hashtags, keep it under 15 seconds, keep it over 15 seconds, make it bright, make it loud, make it slick, make it professional, don’t make it slick, don’t make it professional, don’t make it this! The algorithm built by these companies exploits our want for approval and decides what’s worthy of attention, and we end up bending our art to fit it. It’s so sad to see. The algorithm doesn’t understand your passion, the hours you spent stacking exposures, or the excitement of capturing faint Oiii detail in an SN remnant. It only knows engagement metrics: how long someone paused on your image, how quickly they scrolled, whether they double-tapped, and if they liked it or not. So, you adapt. You brighten the image. You crop it differently. You make it longer. You start following trends. You call it “optimisation”, but it’s really just compromise dressed-up in data analytics and being controlled by the BIG Machine. Before you know it, the algorithm becomes your creative dictator. You are being forced down into this deep pit of ‘let’s keep you on our platforms, so we can steal even more of your data,’ and ‘let’s see how your post performed this last week, and here’s some things you can do to make it better.’ Subtle, right? One of the saddest side effects of chasing likes and follows is how it changes the way we connect with others. Social media was supposed to build communities—but it often just builds comparisons. Instead of sharing to learn, we now share to compete. We don’t do it with curiosity, but with quiet self-judgment. Did that get as many likes as it should have? Why don’t people like my images anymore? Let’s be honest: it has nothing to do with your images, and everything to do with how the BIG machine works. People will tell you that your content doesn’t get seen anymore because your images and content are not good. I call BS. Your images don’t get seen anymore because these platforms are so vast, filled with fake this and spam that and platforms pushing their own agendas. When it doesn’t perform, we feel crappy. Something has gone wrong along the way. The irony is that we end up surrounded by people who share our passions, which is brilliant—yet we feel more isolated than ever. The sense of belonging becomes conditional. ‘I’ll like yours if you like mine.’ ‘I’ll comment if you comment.’ Engagement masquerades as friendship, but the emotional foundation is thin. True community requires vulnerability, and vulnerability doesn’t thrive in a system that rewards perfection. Astrophotography, by its nature, is a slow art. It rewards patience, persistence, and technical mastery. It teaches you to wait for clear skies, to experiment, to fail, to recalibrate, and to try again. It’s a craft built on quiet focus: the kind of deep work that social media actively undermines. Each notification, each new like, is a tiny interruption. It pulls you out of the creative flow and back into the performance. You’re not thinking about the data you’re collecting or the processing techniques you’re learning: you’re wondering how your last post is doing. The tragedy is that this shallow feedback loop can make even passionate creators feel hollow. You start to equate silence with failure. You forget that some of the best art takes time to find its audience. Likes are instant: impact isn’t. Rome was absolutely not built in a day. When every image you share feels like a slant on your worth, burnout isn’t far behind. You start to feel pressure to keep up: to post regularly, to stay visible, to maintain momentum. The joy of creation turns into a performance schedule. The more you feed the machine, the more it demands. And, because algorithms reward consistency, the moment you pause to rest, your reach drops. You’re punished for taking a break. This cycle doesn’t just exhaust your creativity; it erodes your relationship with it. You begin to resent the very thing that once gave you meaning. The telescope gathers dust. The hard drives fill with unshared data. The spark fades. There’s a modern myth that visibility equals value. If you have followers, you’ve “made it.” But, influence built on metrics is fragile. It’s volatile. It’s not the same as trust, respect, or expertise. I once read a quote from someone on social media who was sad because they only got 100 likes on a post, but if one hundred people walked into your physical store and praised you for your art, you’d be overwhelmed. What has changed? I see social media accounts with millions of followers but with low engagement rates. That isn’t anything to do with their content. Take the freekin’ NASA social media page for example. It has 96.6m followers on Instagram and the average post gets an engagement of less than 350k. OK, on the surface that feels like a lot of engagement, but feels counter to creating a community. I searched on their page, and around 30% of each post is space hoaxers, flat earthers, moon landing deniers, or religious zealots claiming that the images were created by God. My own opinion is that I don’t think astrophotography should about being an influencer: it should be about being an observer . It’s about cultivating a sense of wonder, precision, and curiosity about the universe. Those qualities can’t be quantified in engagement charts. And yet, many creators feel pressure to “build their brand”: to perform expertise instead of practising it. The result? Voices blur, authenticity fades, and genuine insight is drowned out by vanity metrics and selling products. Don’t get me wrong: I’m the first person to try to spread the amazing word about our wonderful hobby, but I would rather share it with people who have a genuine interest in the subject matter and not share to fake accounts, bots, and spam. I have a combined number of 20.5k people who ‘follow’ my social media journey in this wonderful hobby, but I am pretty positive that 50% of that number is spam-fakery and bot-like nonsense. You don’t need a viral post to matter. You just need integrity: the quiet confidence that what you’re creating aligns with who you are. If people like that, then the right people will let you know. Chasing likes, in many ways, is a form of emotional outsourcing. We have handed our self-esteem to strangers in hopes they’ll handle it gently. When they don’t—when a post underperforms or goes unnoticed—we feel rejected, even though nothing fundamental about our work has changed. It’s the same image, and the same equipment. The same sky. The same effort. The only difference is the response. That’s not a sustainable emotional economy anymore. Something needs to change. Studies have linked heavy social media use with increased anxiety, depression, and feelings of inadequacy—particularly among creative people. Constant comparison breeds discontent. Our nervous systems were never designed to process this much feedback from this many people, this often. Particularity if it feels negative and unwanted. You can’t nurture your creative soul if you’re constantly feeding your social ego. I’m not saying we need to abandon social media: we just need to recalibrate it a little. Well, the social media companies do. That’s why I started Picastro  and why it exists: to democratise social media and create a place for genuine curiosity, thoughtful connection, and the craft  of astrophotography: not the performance of it. One thing I was very conscious of when building this platform is that the emphasis isn’t on followers or popularity, but on participation . It’s about building a shared archive of cosmic exploration, not an endless competition for attention. There are no algorithms to manipulate, no bots inflating numbers, no adverts shouting for your focus. Just real people, real images, and real conversation. The difference may sound subtle, but psychologically, it’s huge. When you remove the performance pressure, you rediscover your intrinsic motivation that started this journey: awe, wonder, experimentation, and community. You stop chasing visibility and start chasing your mastery. So, let’s imagine this. Posting an image not to see how it performs, but to start a conversation. Imagine your worth not tied to reach, but to resonance. Imagine feedback that helps you grow, not statistics that keep you scrolling. That’s what sharing should feel like. It’s certainly why Picastro exists. Every image you take—every star, every nebula, every faint mote of dust—is a small act of wonder. It’s a record of where you were, what you saw, and how you connected to the cosmos. That deserves more than a number. When you reclaim the joy of sharing for its own sake, your work changes. You experiment more. You take creative risks. You collaborate. You fall forward. You learn. And, most importantly, you remember: you’re not in competition with anyone but yourself again. It worked for me, that’s for sure. The true cost of chasing likes isn’t just time, energy, or self-esteem: it’s the slow erosion of meaning. The good news? You can reclaim it any time you want. Start by asking yourself simple questions before posting: Why am I sharing this?   What do I hope someone feels when they see it?   Would I still post this if no one could like or comment on it?  If your answer still feels authentic and true, then that’s the kind of people and images the world needs more of. Because you shouldn’t measure your worth in metrics. You should measure it in moments of wonder, in acts of patience, in the quiet nights you spend under the stars. So next time you feel the itch to refresh your feed, look up instead. There’s a galaxy waiting to remind you what real connection feels like. Your photons don’t need to be validated. It just needs to be seen by you  and the real people who really want to see it for what it is. That’s real social media progress. If you actually read this far, brilliant.

NGC 7380 or the wizard nebula is a relatively young open cluster of stars in the constellation of Cepheus, discovered by Caroline Herschel in 1787. The surrounding emission nebulosity is known colloquially as the Wizard Nebula, which spans an angle of 25′. All nebulae are almost impossible to see with the naked eye, but using some dedicated astronomy equipment, some filters that only let in certain wavelengths of light and my astronomy telescope, we can image vast objects like the one show below. This vast nebula spans approximately 100 light-years across. To put this in terms of our Moon’s size, which has a diameter of about 3,474 kilometers, the Wizard Nebula would be equivalent to around 2.88 trillion moons lined up end to end across its diameter. Total Integration time : 12 hours Moon coverage : 35% Location : Northern Hemisphere Bortle : 4 I took this image on 2023 using my one shot colour astronomy camera and my Skywatcher 200P telescope all sitting nicely on my Skywatcher HEQ5Pro equatorial mount. This was quite a tricky deep sky object to process and with a farily short integration time, it made it more difficult to reveal the Hydrogen gases around this nebula. You can see them here as I have processed them in a kind of rusty orange colour, but Hydrogen is normally processed in red. I have since imaged this deep sky object in monochrome using my current set up of the same telescope mentioned above but with the addition of the AM5 to the workflow. You can see it below. As you can probably see the details are much better and the coours are much more proncouces. Admittedly, this is a slightly longer integration time, but all-in-all the mono version is much clearer with much more detail.

The Importance of Calibration Frames When you first get into astrophotography, it can feel overwhelming. Figuring out what gear you need, how to focus your telescope, or which deep-sky object to pursue can seem like half the battle. As you gain experience and take your first stack of images, you might notice something's off. Dust spots, uneven light, and strange glowing pixels can appear. That’s when you hear the phrase "calibration frames" and wonder if this hobby will ever get simpler. I put them off for so long, and I kind of got away with it... to an extent. Calibration frames are the unsung heroes of astro imaging. They may not look pretty; in fact, they’re mostly black, grey, or just plain boring. However, what they do is often magical. They help clean up your final images by correcting imperfections in your camera sensor and optical path. Think of them as the deep clean your data deserves before you start stretching and tweaking. What Are Calibration Frames? Calibration frames are additional sets of images taken specifically to remove or correct known defects or inconsistencies in your imaging setup. There are three primary types: Dark frames Flat frames Bias frames Each calibration frame plays a specific role, and together, they dramatically improve the quality of your final stacked image. Dark Frames: Battling Sensor Noise Every camera sensor produces heat, and with heat comes noise. Long exposures, like those used in astrophotography, can introduce various noise types—especially thermal noise and hot pixels. That’s where dark frames come in. A dark frame is simply a photo taken with the same exposure time, ISO/gain, and temperature as your light frames (the actual images of the night sky), but with the lens cap or dust cover on. No light gets in; you’re just capturing the noise. Dark frames allow you to identify and subtract this unwanted data. Once stacked into a "master dark," they’re applied to your light frames to eliminate: Hot pixels (those annoying tiny bright dots) Thermal noise patterns Amp glow (depending on your camera) Most astrophotographers build a library of darks for different exposure times and reuse them—particularly if you have a cooled camera that maintains a consistent temperature. Some recommend redoing your darks every six months, but this might depend on your camera conditions. Flat Frames: Correcting Uneven Illumination Flat frames are taken to correct for vignetting (those darker corners), dust motes on your sensor or filters, and any uneven illumination across the frame. You’ve probably seen the effects—those weird dark donuts or subtle light fall-off that seems impossible to remove in post-processing. To take a flat, aim your setup at a uniformly illuminated surface. Common techniques include: Using a white T-shirt stretched over the telescope during twilight Pointing at the dawn sky Using an LED light panel or dedicated flat field generator Key things to remember: Keep the camera and telescope in the exact same setup as your light frames. Don’t change focus or image train at all. Keep exposure short but avoid clipping (histogram peak usually around 1/3 to 1/2). When you stack these flats into a master flat, you can correct: Vignetting Dust bunnies or shadows Uneven light due to reducers or filters It’s one of the easiest ways to boost your image’s quality—and yet one of the most overlooked by beginners. Bias Frames: Capturing Read Noise Bias frames record the read noise—the electronic noise introduced when the sensor reads data. These are the fastest exposures your camera can take (often 1/8000s or faster), with the cap on. While bias frames are less talked about these days—especially with CMOS sensors—they're still sometimes useful, especially if you’re using software that relies on them or working with scaled darks. If you stack a set of these into a master bias, it can help: Correct for fixed-pattern noise in some workflows Improve calibration with certain stacking tools That said, many modern workflows can skip bias if you’re already using well-matched darks. Where Do They Go in the Workflow? Most stacking software (PixInsight, DeepSkyStacker, AstroPixelProcessor) will have a calibration stage. You’ll input your light frames along with your master dark, master flat, and optionally, master bias. The software applies these corrections before it does any alignment or integration. It essentially cleans your data before doing any heavy lifting. A typical calibration flow might look like this: Light frames — your actual night sky images. Dark calibration — remove hot pixels and thermal noise. Programs like PixInsight are very good at removing hot pixels. Below is a typical dark frame from a cooled monochrome camera like the 533MMPro. Flat correction — even out brightness and remove dust. Bias (optional) — fine-tune sensor readout corrections. Registration — align the stars across frames. If you’re using PixInsight, the software does this for you if you are using WBPP, for example. Stacking — combine the data to reduce noise and improve detail. The Case for Not Skipping Calibration Frames You might hear people say, "I didn’t bother with flats" or "I’ll skip darks because it’s a cooled camera." But even with modern astronomy camera tech, calibration frames matter. They can be the difference between an image that looks clean and polished and one that has distracting artefacts. Skipping calibration is a bit like building a house and not bothering to level the foundation. Tips for Better Calibration Frames Take enough frames : A good rule of thumb is 20–30 of each filter type. The more you stack, the cleaner the master calibration frame will be. While there may not be a strict cutoff point, more calibration frames generally help your final image. Keep them separate : Store calibration libraries in a well-labelled folder structure so you can reuse them. Matching settings : For darks and bias, settings must match your lights exactly. For flats, just keep the same focus and optical train. Conclusion Calibration frames are essential for improving the quality of your astrophotography images. They help eliminate noise and correct for imperfections, allowing you to achieve stunning results. By incorporating dark, flat, and bias frames into your workflow, you can elevate your astrophotography game. Remember, taking the time to properly calibrate your images will pay off in the long run. Hope this helps someone just starting out. I used to cut corners, but I now consistently use calibration frames.

Understanding Satellite Trails and their Impact As more satellites are launched into low Earth orbit—often in the hundreds at a time—the night sky is becoming increasingly crowded. For astrophotographers, this isn’t just about visual clutter; it's a technical challenge that can significantly impact the quality of astronomical imaging. Satellite trails—those thin, bright lines that cut across your exposures—are now appearing in a wide range of shots, from wide-field Milky Way images to narrowband deep-sky photographs. What used to be a rare disruption is fast becoming a regular and unavoidable issue. Unlike light pollution, which tends to affect contrast and background brightness, satellite trails interfere directly with the data you’re trying to capture. They don’t only ruin the aesthetic of your image—they often compel you to discard valuable subframes. This can compromise your stacking, photometry, and astrometry efforts. As our orbital space gets more crowded, achieving a clean, uninterrupted view of the universe becomes more challenging. The Growth of Satellite Constellations Over the next five years, the global satellite industry is poised for unprecedented growth. According to Goldman Sachs Research, approximately 70,000 low Earth orbit (LEO) satellites are expected to be launched during this period. A staggering 53,000 of these launches are projected to come from China. This surge is primarily driven by the expansion of broadband megaconstellations, such as SpaceX's Starlink and Amazon's Project Kuiper. The European Space Agency (ESA) forecasts that by 2030, there could be as many as 100,000 satellites in orbit. This rapid increase raises urgent concerns about space congestion, potential collisions, and the proliferation of space debris. What Are Satellite Trails? Satellite trails are unwanted streaks that appear in long-exposure astrophotography images. They are caused by sunlight reflecting off satellites as they pass through the field of view. Unlike star trails, which are predictable and due to Earth’s rotation, satellite trails are unpredictable and abrupt. The image below, taken by amateur astronomer and astrophotographer Aleixandrus (@aleixandrus.astro on Instagram and @aleixandrus on Picastro), highlights the massive issue of satellite trails. With the rise of mega-constellations like Starlink, the number of satellites in orbit has increased dramatically over the last few years, making trail contamination a more common issue—even for short exposures. How They Affect Image Quality At a fundamental level, satellite trails are unwanted light intrusions that disrupt your frame. However, their impact goes beyond mere aesthetics: Stacking Disruption Stacking multiple exposures improves the signal-to-noise ratio, but satellite trails introduce artifacts that remain unless you aggressively reject those frames. Even with sophisticated stacking software that includes outlier rejection, strong satellite streaks can leave residual patterns or noise behind. And we don’t want this. Data Loss If a satellite crosses a crucial area of your image—like the core of a galaxy or a bright nebula—you might have to discard the whole subframe to maintain data integrity. During multi-hour sessions, losing even a few frames can reduce the depth and detail of your final stack. Photometric Interference For those conducting photometry, satellite trails can elevate background levels and contaminate star measurements, especially when a streak overlaps your target star. This leads to inaccurate brightness readings and undermines the scientific value of your capture. Understanding Photometry Photometry in astronomy is the precise measurement of brightness, or light intensity, from celestial objects like stars, planets, galaxies, and nebulae. It involves recording how much light an object emits or reflects, usually through different filters (e.g., red, green, blue, infrared). This helps astronomers: Track variable stars and supernovae Detect exoplanets by observing dips in a star’s brightness during transit Study stellar evolution and temperatures Estimate distances to objects Analyze light curves for scientific modeling Accurate photometry requires clean, well-calibrated images. This is why trails from satellites or poor tracking can contaminate results and yield unreliable data. Astrometric Distortion Astrometry, which relies on precisely identifying star positions, can also be affected by satellite trails. These trails can confuse detection algorithms or obscure fainter stars, skewing the coordinate data and complicating efforts to match field stars with known catalogs. Can Software Fix It? While some modern tools attempt to correct satellite trails during stacking—by rejecting outliers or masking affected pixels—these solutions aren’t foolproof. Masking may blur details or introduce processing artifacts, particularly if the trail crosses an area with valuable data. Often, the best solution is prevention rather than correction. Ideally, satellites wouldn't be reflective—perhaps that's the way forward! How to Reduce Satellite Trails in Your Astrophotography Images While it's challenging to avoid satellites altogether, some strategies can help minimize their impact on your astrophotography: 1. Take multiple shorter exposures By taking shorter subs, you reduce the likelihood that a trail will ruin a large portion of your data. If a trail does appear, you waste less time by discarding just one frame. 2. Use stacking rejection carefully Sigma-clipping or other outlier rejection methods can eliminate weaker trails. However, strong reflections may still leave behind artifacts. Be sure to review your subs before stacking. 3. Check satellite predictions Tools like Heavens-Above or Stellarium can help you anticipate bright satellite passes. While not entirely foolproof, they assist in avoiding imaging during peak trail times. 4. Shoot at darker angles Satellite brightness is typically highest shortly after sunset or before sunrise when the satellites are still illuminated by the sun. Imaging later in the night may reduce the chance of bright trails appearing in your shots. Conclusion: Adapting to a changing sky Satellite trails are no longer rare intrusions—they're an everyday reality in modern astrophotography. While some post-processing techniques can help minimize the damage, there's no true substitute for clean, uninterrupted subs. For those striving to produce high-quality, scientifically useful images, satellite trails pose an increasing challenge. Have you been battling satellite trails in your images? Share your experience with the Picastro community on the Picastro app—compare techniques, learn from others, and help us adapt to this changing sky.

Imaging the night sky is a magical experience that combines art, science, and technology. Whether you are a beginner or an experienced astrophotographer, having the right tools can make all the difference in the quality of your images. From cameras to software, each piece of equipment plays a crucial role in helping you reveal the beauty of stars, planets, and celestial events. This guide will walk you through the essential astrophotography tools you need to start or improve your night sky photography. Choosing the right camera and lens and astrophotography tools The foundation of any astrophotography setup is the camera. Most photographers prefer DSLR or mirrorless cameras because of their manual controls and high sensitivity to light. When selecting a camera, look for one with good low-light performance and the ability to shoot in RAW format for better post-processing flexibility. For lenses, wide-angle lenses with a large aperture (f/2.8 or lower) are ideal. They allow more light to enter, capturing more stars and details in the night sky. A focal length between 14mm and 24mm is common for wide-field shots like the Milky Way, while longer lenses (50mm and above) are better for capturing planets or the moon. Tips for camera and lens setup: Use manual focus and set it to infinity for sharp stars. Shoot in RAW to retain maximum image data. Use a sturdy tripod to avoid camera shake during long exposures. Essential astrophotography Tools for tracking and stability Long exposure times are necessary to capture faint stars and nebulae, but this introduces the challenge of star trails caused by Earth's rotation. To counter this, astrophotographers use tracking mounts that move the camera in sync with the stars. There are two main types of mounts: Equatorial Mounts - These align with Earth's axis and provide precise tracking, ideal for deep-sky photography. Alt-Azimuth Mounts - Easier to set up but less accurate for long exposures. In addition to mounts, a solid tripod is essential. It should be heavy enough to support your camera and lens without wobbling. Remote shutter releases or intervalometers help reduce vibrations by allowing you to trigger the camera without touching it. Additional tools for stability: Bubble level to ensure your tripod is perfectly horizontal. Counterweights for balancing heavier lenses or telescopes. Software and apps to enhance your astrophotography experience Post-processing is a vital part of astrophotography. Raw images straight from the camera often look dull and noisy. Software tools help enhance details, reduce noise, and bring out the colours of celestial objects. Some say that processing is 80% of the hobby. I'm not so sure on that one. Popular software includes: Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop for general editing and stacking. DeepSkyStacker for stacking multiple exposures to improve signal-to-noise ratio. StarStaX for creating star trail images. Recommendations for software use: Learn basic photo editing techniques to enhance your images. Use stacking to reduce noise and increase detail. Plan your sessions with apps to avoid cloudy nights or bright moonlight. Additional accessories to improve your night sky photography Beyond the main equipment, several accessories can improve your astrophotography results: Light Pollution Filters : These filters reduce the orange glow from city lights, making stars more visible. Power Banks : Long sessions require reliable power sources for your camera and accessories. Dew Heaters : Prevent lens fogging caused by moisture during cold nights. Star Charts and Printed Guides : Useful for identifying constellations and planning compositions. Investing in these accessories can make your night sky photography more comfortable and productive. Tips for beginners to get started with astrophotography Starting this hobby we call astro can be overwhelming, but with the right approach, you can quickly improve your skills: I know I did. Start simple : Use your existing camera and a wide-angle lens. Practice manual settings : Learn to adjust ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. Use a tripod and remote shutter : Stability is key for sharp images. Experiment with exposure times : Start with 15-30 seconds and adjust based on results. Plan your shoots : Use apps to find dark skies and clear nights. Remember, patience and practice are essential. Each session teaches you something new about the night sky and your equipment. Expanding your astrophotography toolkit over time As you gain experience, you might want to expand your toolkit with more advanced equipment: Dedicated Astronomy Cameras : These have higher sensitivity and cooling systems to reduce noise. Telescopes with Camera Adapters : For detailed shots of planets and deep-sky objects. Advanced Tracking Mounts : With autoguiding capabilities for longer exposures. Keep learning and experimenting to find the tools that best suit your style and goals. Taking images of the night sky is a rewarding hobby that combines technical skill and creativity. By investing in the right astrophotography tools and learning how to use them effectively, you can create stunning images that reveal the wonders of the universe. Whether you are just starting or looking to upgrade your gear, this guide provides a solid foundation to help you on your journey. Here's a recent image I took of the Crescent nebula in HOO, Hydrogen and Oxygen from my back garden on the west coast of Scotland.

Most people don't even consider light polluton at all, it has no direct effect on them. But light pollution has such an dramatic effect not only on nature and what we can't see in our night skies, but it is having a huge effect on nature in general. Light pollution is often treated like an unfortunate inconvenience. For astrophotographers, it’s a central challenge that shapes every aspect of imaging—from deep sky object selection to processing strategy. It doesn’t just affect the visibility of faint stars and screw up faint nebula and distant galaxies—it alters how we calibrate exposures, what filters we use, and how much detail we can coax from the sky. Light pollution disrupts the natural rhythms of wildlife and ecosystems. Many animals rely on natural light for navigation, reproduction, and foraging—artificial lighting can confuse these signals, leading to fatal consequences. For example, sea turtle hatchlings may head toward streetlights instead of the ocean, and migrating birds can become disoriented, often colliding with illuminated buildings. Even plants and insects are affected, with altered pollination patterns and disrupted growth cycles. Overall, excessive artificial light disturbs the balance of natural ecosystems and contributes to biodiversity loss. But understanding it in detail is crucial for the success of your images—especially if you’re not lucky enough to live under pristine Bortle 1 skies. Types of light pollution and their sources There are three main types of light pollution that affect astrophotography: Image from DarkSkyUK web site Skyglow – The brightening of the night sky over populated areas caused by scattered light in the atmosphere, making it hard to see stars and celestial objects. Glare – Excessively bright light that causes visual discomfort or reduces visibility, often from poorly shielded outdoor lighting. Light Trespass – When unwanted artificial light spills into areas where it’s not needed or intended, such as streetlights shining into bedrooms. Clutter – The confusing and excessive grouping of bright lights, especially in urban areas, which can distract or disorient both humans and animals. Over-illumination – Using more light than necessary, often in commercial or residential areas, leading to wasted energy and unnecessary light exposure. Knowing your local sources of light pollution is the first step. Walk around your local area during imaging hours. Note direct and indirect light. Simple shielding, repositioning, or negotiating with neighbours (gently) can reduce the impact of some sources of light pollution on your astrophotography imaging sessions. You can find out more about Dark Sky UK here Bortlescale realities vs. theory Most astrophotographers and night sky imagers use the Bortle Scale to classify their sky quality, from Class 1 (darkest) to Class 9 (urban core). While useful, it has its limitations: Bortle 5-6 skies still allow impressive images—if you know how to work within them. Many Picastro users in suburbs produce stunning galaxies and nebulae using narrowband filters and careful processing. But this is no excuse to berrate the effect of light pollution. We still need to try and mitigate it somehow. Your real limitation isn’t just the Bortle class, but the consistency and sky quality. For example, a Bortle 4 sky with frequent haze and poor atmospheric conditions, can perform worse than a dry Bortle 6. Use tools like LightPollutionMap.info to evaluate your area. Also, spend a few nights measuring your sky with a Sky Quality Meter (SQM) if possible—it tells a more nuanced story than the Bortle estimate alone. Filters that actually help There’s no magic bullet here, but filters are vital. Here’s how to choose the right type: Broadband Filters (L-Pro, L-Extreme, CLS, IDAS D1 etc) Great for general use in light-polluted areas. These work best on brighter targets like larger galaxies, star clusters and brighter nebulae. Image of the Lion nebula, taken by founder of Picastro, Tom McCrorie. Taken with a one shoot colour camera and the L Extreme light pollution filter in Bortle 5 skies Narrowband Filters (Ha, OIII, SII) Transformative for emission nebulae and adding faint Ha to galaxies. These isolate specific wavelengths of light, cutting out almost all background glow. Many astro imagers in Bortle 7+ zones use narrowband exclusively. Dual/Narrowband for one-shot Colour (OSC) cameras Filters like the Optolong L-eXtreme work wonders for beginners using OSC. They provide near-monochrome signal separation without needing a full mono rig. Choose filters that match your target For instance, imaging the Andromeda Galaxy with an H-alpha filter won’t help—but the same filter will dramatically improve a shot of the Heart and soul nebula. LRGB filters are generally used for imaging galaxies but can be used to image emission nebula and reflection nebula. Planning around urban environments Urban settings require strategic planning. Here’s how to adapt to your conditions: Image high if you can Aim for targets that rise high above the horizon and shoot as close to zenith as you can to avoid light domes. Use Stellarium or Sky Safari to forecast altitude throughout the night. Get the timing right Wait until after midnight during the summer months when darkness is a little better and start shooting after 6.30 during the winter months when businesses shut and some local lighting decreases. Use physical barriers Portable light shields and dew shields, tall fences or bushes, or even dark fabric over your rig can block intrusive local light. I foudn this out taht even small silar ligths can have an effect on your lightframes. Cover them up during your imaging session. Stack more frames Signal-to-noise ration improves with stacking, and be ruthless when stacking as adding in rubbish can only produce rubbish. Urban astrophotographers often take 3x or 4x the exposures needed at dark sites to compensate for light pollution. An example of this is Clint Shimmer who images from Bortle 9 skies in the US and his images are actually really amazing. You can see his Picastro public profile here . Clint's take on the heart and soul nebula. What a truly stunning image. Keep sessions short and purposeful Focus on bright targets if you are limted by heavy light pollution and track their position carefully, and you can always stop when gradient levels become unmanageable. Although modern improvements on algorithm based gradient removal tools such as those contained in Pixinsight and other amazing tools from Seti Astro for example are incredible these days. This is not a sollution to helping to combat light pollution though. Narrowband isn’t a cheat code—but can help There’s a misconception that narrowband filters magically remove all problems. They help, but not without trade-offs: Longer Exposures Narrowband filters reduce the amount of light hitting the sensor, requiring exposures of 300s or more. This can also bring other issues of over exposed and bloated stars depending on the filters being used of course. Colour balance OSC (one shoot colour) users may find coloor calibration difficult without a broadband frame to guide white balance. Processing complexity You’ll need to learn multi-channel combining (especially with mono cameras), which introduces a steeper learning curve. Therea re some fantastic videos around on yourtube though epxlaining combining all of these processes to produce the best results. That said, narrowband imaging is one of the most effective tools for urban astrophotographers. The ability to isolate target emissions from background noise is eastro-life-changing—and it opens access to faint nebulae and dark nebula even in the city. In relation to general astrophotography, light pollution is not a deal-breaker. It’s a creative constraint. Some of the most inspiring images on Picastro come from city balconies, urban rooftops, or garden sheds next to busy motorways. What they share isn’t perfect skies—it’s planning, adaptation, and thoughtful techniques. Understand your light environment, use the right tools, and you’ll be amazed what can emerge from the skyglow. Clear skies everyone.

Astrophotography is a world of patience, precision, art and discovery. Whether you're aligning your first telescope to the pole star or refining years of exposure techniques, good practices remain good practices. These tips aren’t watered-down advice—they’re the foundational insights that even experienced astrophotographers come back to. M16 The Eagle Nebula - image by Tom McCrorie - Founder of Picastro Know your sky 
Understanding what’s overhead saves time and produces better images. Use astronomy apps like Stellarium, SkySafari or NightSky to simulate the night sky. In the early days, I spent countless nights hunting for Andromeda by eye—only to find I was looking at the wrong region. Now, every session I embark on begins with an exact plan based on moon phases and target altitude. I first started out with countless books, Turn left at Orion , Practical Astronomer , StarFinder for Beginners are actually very good books for starting out. Invest in the best mount you can 
Even a basic DSLR can produce incredible images if your mount is solid. When I upgraded from a second hand mount to a slightly more capable equatorial mount, my images transformed overnight. The lesson? Tracking trumps sensor quality. Start there. Of course guiding will improve on this even more but good tracking is a great place to start to imrove image quality. Calibrate everything 
Darks, flats, and bias (dark flats) frames aren’t optional—they’re essential. My first stacked image was full of dust rings and sensor noise. I learned the hard way: skipping calibration leads to disappointment. Take time to capture proper calibration frames, and you’ll save hours in post. Some of the best advice I received was to do flats and darks. I used to think my images were pretty decent, till I started to use these calibration frames. The details that are punched out when using these is mind blowing. Don’t chase gear! Master what you have 
It’s tempting to chase the next best scope, camera, or filters and sure those can sometimes make good imaged great, but every upgrade has a learning curve. One of the best images I’ve taken was of the moon with a very simple DSLR, the Nikon D5000 and a second hand equatorial mount, I’d learned how to push it to its limits (and my limits). Stability, focus, and tracking matter more than your hardware wishlist. This is of course fully depenedent on the kinds of images you want to take. A mineral image of the moon taken with a NkonD5000 DSLR and stacked in photoshop. Plan, then image Sessions that start with a checklist always end better. I use Clear Outside and Astrospheric to get hyperlocal cloud forecasts, and of course checking by poking my head out of my back door! Planning is more critical if you are travelling to different locations of course. Getting polar aligned just after sunset means I’m imaging while others are still maybe troubleshooting. Yeah, crazy, but in even in the summer months I make sure I am polar aligned so I can just push the button on my plans. Sometimes gives me an extra few subs here and there, and living on the west coast of Scotland, every little helps! Shoot in RAW, Not JPEG
 When using a DSLR imaging in RAW files preserve dynamic range—crucial for bringing out faint nebulosity or balancing star brightness. JPEGs compress and discard this data. A friend once asked why their stacked image looked flat. The answer: they shot in JPEG. Once they switched to RAW, the difference was literally night and day. Of course the Picastro social media app preserves your hi resolution data even more when sharing it. Keep your optics clean—but not obsessively
 This is a really careful one to undertake as flat etc can removes some of these dust bunnies etc, but I am obsessive about cleaning my optical train. A speck of dust is not a disaster. Unless you see smudges or image artifacts, leave the glass alone. When needed, use an air blower first, then clean gently with proper optics fluid and lens cloth. I also keep my primary mirror clean on my Newtonian telescope. Align properly (and re-check often)
 Polar alignment is probably one of the most important things to consider nailing exactly in the hobby. When I first started out I used to do it manually and using some clever little astronomy apps like Polar align Pro etc, but even if you do it manually or use automated tools contained in your software, NINA, ASI Air etc, make sure you get it as exact as you can, as it will help reduce walking noise and field rotation, meaning you can retain all of your image without trimming off too much image in post processing. Stack thoughtfully
 More isn’t always better. I once stacked 45 hours of data (445 subs) and ended up with a worse image than stacking 25 carefully selected ones. Use Deep Sky Stacker’s scoring  system or sub frame selector in Pixinsight or simply eyeball each sub (time consusming though) to discard poor frames. Better input equals better output. Watch for tracking errors, clouds, and satellite trails. Honestly this will pay you dividends in the long term. Stay curious, stay honest
 Share your raw images as proudly as your finals. The community learns from your journey, not your perfection. Some of the best advice I’ve gotten came after posting an image I wasn’t proud of. Astrophotography isn’t about Instagram likes—it’s about documenting your window to the cosmos.